Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Dazed and Confused.

Once again we were awoken at 0530 by the church bells. After a quick breakfast, we walked to the hospital. We left a little earlier and the streets were less crowded so we made good time helped out by convenient shortcut that Mary found yesterday. Because of this we arrived at 0645 and of course nobody was there for the 0700 report which they start the day with. Except for the 0700 start time the morning report would be a good addition to teaching in Canada as emergency cases done during the night and interesting cases for the upcoming day are discussed.

When Brady and I arrived yesterday, we were told that our licences hadn't been processed yet as we had to present our documents and there was a new form to fill out. We figured today that before laying a hand on any patient, we had better check. The lady who we would ask wasn't around so we figured we would take a look at the OR. After finding the change room, we wandered into the OR where we found the day's cases posted on the wall. Walking up and down the halls we couldn't see anybody we recognized as an anaesthesiologist although we did meet some techs. Nobody seemed in a big hurry. It kind off reminded me of the University Hospital.

The machines and monitors are quite new and up to North American standards. We were a little worried because we couldn't see a laryngoscope but one arrived "just in time".

We stuck around to watch the start of one case, a large abdominal tumour and then wandered down the hall to watch a tech skillfully do a spinal on one of the patients we had discussed at morning report. Then it was off to see if we actually had a license to practise. As it turned out we didn't. There were more forms to fill and more documents to produce. In addition I had stupidly not charged the phone and so I realized that Mary could be frantically calling me. Outside the hospital some entreneurs had set up a cell phone charging station so I paid 200 francs to charge my phone.

I could have been more upset, however I remembered all the hassles I have had getting licences in Canadian provinces and anyway why should we assume that we have the right to practise in any third world country? And the cool waters of the Serena Hotel were calling. Too bad I forgot my bathing suit. I don't think well at 0530.

After a while I was able to join Mary at the local market where she was getting a shirt custom made for me. There was a wealth of fruits and vegetables and some very pungent but not overpowering scents. We walked home after negotiating a beer in broken French at a grocer. Apparently if you don't drink the beer on site, it cost and extra 500 franc (almost $1) deposit in addition to the 600 francs for the beer.

Monday, May 30, 2011

Rwanda Day 2 (and part of Day 1)

Since the last post, we actually ventured out into Africa. We were all sitting around the apartment when we realized that we had to eat sometime and as we had very little food in the apartment this would mean eating out. In Rwanda there appear to be three ways of getting around; on foot, perched precariously on the back of a motorcycle taxi or stuffed into a "taxi" with 30 other people. The last two were not appealing and we were pretty tired so I got out the volunteer manual which mentioned that they had "heard" that the Green Corner was okay. Using our travel guide, I was actually able to figure out how to get there and so we all set off in the pitch black night. The main drag actually has street lights and was patrolled with a soldier on each block. We actually ran into someone that we had met at the tourist office who confirmed that we were on the right route and recommended the chicken. After some time we found the restaurant which was mostly open aired and not much different from the many roadside bars we had passed. A lady met us and in broken Franglais told us that there was no menu but we could have chicken or fish. We ordered the fish and asked for three orders. About 10 minutes someone came over and asked if we were sure we wanted three as they were quite large so we compromized on two fish with 3 sides of fries. After about what seemed like an hour and one reminder to our waitress the fish arrived. They were large Tilapia, grilled over charcoal, very spicy and excellent. Before and after the meal, someone would come over with a kettle of warm water, a basin and a bar of soap and we would wash our hands. After this we walked home.

We knew in order to walk to the hospital, we would have to get up fairly early so we set our alarm for 0540. We needent have bothered at 0530 two sets of church bells started chiming (this is Monday by the way). Apparently that is when life starts in Kigali.

We had a hectic walk to the hospital dogging around school children and people trying to go to work. It took a while at the hospital to find someone who knew where we were supposed to go but we arrived for morning report at 0715. Nobody remarked on our tardiness and they actually got up and gave us seats.

After a visit to Esperance who apparently runs the hospital and learning a new wrinkle in the licencing laws. It was time to start teaching. I must say Brady acquitted himself marvelously while I interjected the appropriate sage comment about every 15 minutes. The residents were very enthusiastic and we had no problem getting them to participate.

We had lunch at the hospital canteen which we had been warned against but which was actually pretty good. Dr. Theo who is the program director came down from Butare and joined us for lunch and stayed for the afternoon sessions.

We had half an hour before the afternoon sessions so whipped over to the Serena Hotel to buy a pool membership. Then it was more teaching. At 1600 Mary joined us at the Serena pool which was incredibly and joyfully frigidly cold. After a swim, airdrying by the pool and an incredible shower we walked home.

While Brady and I were educating, Mary had ventured into the local market and picked up some local produce and what she was told was beef which she had whipped into a miraculous creation (of course making sure it was all well cooked)

The Wife's View

I walked the boys to work making sure they didn't get lost on their way. Around 0900 I let Brian in his office and ran a few errands. I wanted to explore on my own without Brian navigating and was able to walk downtown resisting the temptation to take a motorbike taxi home.

I cannot believe how incredibly lucky we are in North America with things that we take for granted. Every morning we pass by a community of tin roofed clay houses with no plumbing (that means running water or toilets) They share a common well and an outhouse...of course no electricity.

The market was an interesting experience. There were tables of local fruits and veggies. There was a section of tailors sitting behind their Singer Treadle machines sewing away. Brian wants me to order a dashiki for him. I think I'll take an OR top and have them take the measurements from that for him. They can churn one out in an hour. The tradional woman's outfit is very colourful. They look so beautiful. I love the way the moms piggyback their babies.

Anyway, I had to order meat from the local butcher. He cut a slab of beef from a part of the cow that I didn't recognize. I had no idea what I was ordering, I just knew that it had to be cooked tonight and I was going to cook the "you know what" out of it. I tried to get a chicken but he replied "no chicken today" or something like that.

The boys ate it up with gusto...so far so good.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Kigali Day 1

Yesterday we flew from Brussels to Kigali. We had a speedy trip to the airport and after figuring out where to check in, were able to get through a modest sized security line before drinking our last Starbucks coffee for the next five weeks. We met Brady Warnick the resident who is accompanying us at the gate. It was an eight hour flight but fortunately we had a block of four seats to ourselves and alternately slept and read.

We arrived on time in Kigali. The airport is fairly modern although we had to walk onto the tarmack to get to the terminal. Customs was quite civilized and after a modest wait for our bags we were met by Damascene one of the residents and were driven to our apartment. Kigali was very dark with a smell of wood smoke. The streets were filled with people out walking around. Soldiers with machine guns on every block kept things cool.

After dropping our stuff in our appartment, Damascene took us to a supermarket to pick up some essentials we might need for breakfast and such including of course beer. Around 2200 we got a knock on our door from a McGill surgery resident who was staying downstairs. He told us that he had arranged for a driver to take him to the Akagera Game Reserve on the Tanzanian border. This was something we had planned however, we really wanted to spend Sunday getting the lay of the land. On the other hand, he did have a driver arranged. We agreed that if we decided to go we would meet him at 0500. We set the alarm for 0430. The streets ourside our apartment were humming with activity until the early morning; very little overcomes Imovane however.

0430 came we woke up, decided NOT.

It was 0900 when I next woke up. Brady was already up, we ate the croissants and yogurt we had bought and found some instant coffee. We then decided to walk to the hospital and then on to "downtown". After a longish walk in the equatorial sun we found the hospital and looked around. We then visited the magnificant Serena Hotel which offers use of the pool for $200 a month. Money well spent!

On then to find the Tourist office and the Hotel Mille Collines (aks Hotel Rwanda). This was complicated by the lack of street signs however after stumbling on the supermarket where we lunched on sausage rolls and a latte. Eventually we found the Tourist Office and then of course the Hotel Rwanda.



After a long walk home, we were dying of thirst so had to try out one of the many roadside bars we had come across. Then home to our apartment.

The Wife's View

Brussels Airways looks after you like a European grandma, making sure you're well fed & well watered...

I had brought the instant coffee from Starbucks as per our niece's recommendation. Thanks Lucy...

Rwanda is very colourful. The Rwandan babies are absolutely adorable. The babies are carried on their mother's back in a huge sarong. They look really comfortable & content.

Friday, May 27, 2011

The Museum of Musical Instruments

Wben people asked me why I was staying in Brussels before going to Rwanda, I told them I wanted a day or two to relax before leaving for Africa. Actually I wanted to visit the Museum of Musical Intruments which I had to been told had every instrument ever designed by Adophe Saxe. Besides designing the 7 sizes of Saxophone, Saxe also designed the various sizes of brass instruments that are used in Collery Bands. As you can see Saxe has a lot to answer for.


A saxophone dated around 1860.


Me outside of the MIM.

While I used to try to blend in when I travelled, I have given this up and now embrace the tourist role, hence we spent today on the Hop on Hop off bus which I have ridden around other European cities. This gave us a good overview of Brussels, which has some impressive architecture.

It also has the Atomian





This was erected in the early 1950s dedicated to peaceful use of the atom.

The Wife's View

I let him have his way today...yes we rode on the top of an uncovered doubledecker bus a one point in the pouring rain. Everytime there was a tree with leaves we were bathed in cold water, I won't even mention the spray of water from the 1/2 "covered" part of the bus...
The museum was alot of fun. It was interactive and he looked like a kid in a candy shop with his nose pressed against the glass...

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Brussels

We arrived in Brussels today.

I came from Halifax and met Mary in Toronto. Our travel agent booked us on Jet airlines which I had never flown on before but the service was great. We even got a few hours of plane sleep before arriving into Brussels.

After picking up our luggage we took a taxi into Brussels. Our taxi driver as we discovered was from Rwanda. We drove in through the morning rush hour to our hotel. I had booked our hotel through Expedia which is always a bit of a crapshoot as you never know what you are getting or even if they got your reservation (althought that has never happened to me). Fortunately the hotel was quite good, a little old but well restored. Initially we were told that we couldn't get our rooms until after 1500 but we eventually were able to check in after a coffee and walking around a bit.

While walking around, we came across this bike


My adult children always bug me about the panniers I have on my bike.

What was supposed to be a short nap ended at 1500 and we dragged ourselves out to walk around a bit and more importantly get a beer.



Belgium has 500 beers. 498 to go.

Being busy with other things I never researched Brussels much and so we just walked around randomly, eventually arriving at the Grand Place with its impressive Gothic Cathedral.





We had a nice dinner of Moules et Frites washed down with 2 more Belgian beers (496 to go) and walked home stopping to sample some Belgian chocolate on the way home.


Not that I'm obsessed with beer.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Leavin' on a jet plane

I leave for Brussels today on the second leg of my little trip. I will be spending two days there before heading off for Rwanda. Of course there is volcano dust to negotiate around and the sketchy airline our travel agent booked us on between Toronto and Brussels.

I have attended the Global Outreach course in Halifax for the past 4 days. I can't remember attending such a great course which kept my attention for every minute even during the 9 hour days. It was great to meet people who had gone on overseas missions (hey I am no slouch, I've been to Ecuador 5 times). I have learned a lot of things that reassure me, a lot of things the scare me and a few things that depress me. I heartily recommend the Global Outreach course even for people who aren't doing a mission. Learning what you can do safely with less resources will make you a better anaesthesiologist.

This is the Glostavent anaesthetic machine. It runs on an oxygen concentrator or compressed gas. If the power fails it can run on ambient air. The ventillator can be driven with oxygen, air or manually. It uses 1/7 the tidal volume to drive the ventillator. If oxygen is used the oxygen is recycled. It uses a drawover vaporizer.

Price $17K

This is a drawover vaporizer which comes in a suitcase to take to where you are working. It comes with a self inflating bag so it can be used for spontaneous or controlled respiration. You can use oxygen or just room air. Price $5K.

Friday, May 20, 2011

Halifax

While I have so far blogged about my anxieties about travelling; I actually don't arrive in Rwanda until next Saturday.

Today I flew to Halifax to attend the Global Outreach Course. This is actually a course I have wanted to attend for several years so the timing is quite good.

Dr. Brendan Finucane was on the flight with me. Dr. Finucane of course hired me so many years ago and it was his presentation on his trip to Rwanda that inspired me to volunteer for this mission. He has been back one other time so I got some last minute brain-picking in the departure lounge and also in the taxi we shared from the Halifax airport.

I interned in Halifax, finishing almost 28 years ago. It is still one of my favorite places to visit, not just because I met my wife there (she is like me from BC go figure). I am staying at the Lord Nelson Hotel near Dalhousie University. The Lord Nelson, when I interned, was known as a spot that had seen better days but was still a place where you could cheaply rent a clean room. It was better known for the Ladies Beverage Room or LBR which I visited a few times. On checking in, I was given an upgrade to a suite. Most likely in recognition of all the money I spent in the LBR so many years ago. The Lord Nelson appears to have also been upgraded and has so far been a very pleasant place to stay.

There was a reception and buffet dinner tonight where I met some of the other doctors and more importantly the resident who will be accompanying me. We seem to have hit it off well although we will see after a month or so of living, travelling and working together.

Everybody I talked to is really positive about the mission and I am getting really excited.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Oh my God, I leave tomorrow.

Tomorrow I fly to Halifax. I will be attending the Global Outreach course.

If I am going to Rwanda to teach, why do I have to attend a course? Fact is, despite all our whining, we anaesthesiologists are pretty pampered in the first world. We have $100,000 machines, lots of monitors, well trained assistants and our patients get million dollar workups before we even set eyes on them. For all this are our outcomes any better. Most of us are working way within our comfort level. Time to push the envelope. This Global Outreach course is all about working safely with what we have, where we are. A lesson a lot of us could use.

After 4 days in Halifax, I fly back to Toronto where my wife will join us and we will be off to Brussels where we will stay for 2 days to acclimatize before the flight to Kigali where we will arrive on May 28.

This has the advantage that if I forget anything, I can get my wife to buy it or I can pick it up in Halifax. I am still really nervous about arriving without my underwear or tooth brush or something stupid.

We had dinner with my niece Lucy last night (and her sister Carolyn). Lucy works with the UN in the Sudan and has actually visited Rwanda and done some of the trips I am thinking of doing. She says we will love it. This of course comes from somebody who has lived in parts of Africa for several years now. I get the feeling we should have really picked her brain while we had the chance but we hadn't seen her in a while and had a lot to catch up on.

Meanwhile the Bruins' incredible post season run is playing havoc with my last minute packing.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

3 days before I leave

Today was my last hospital pain clinic before I leave. The last one until July.

The nurses and clerks brought a cake in for me at the end of the clinic. I was really touched. I have worked with this group for most of this millenium (some from the last).

Because I am essentially closing the Pain Clinic for 6 weeks (except for a few covered by another doctor) 3 months ago I started giving patients a notice that I would be away and why. I have gotten so much support from patients who have told me how much they appreciate what I am about to do.

I did much of my packing last night (no hockey game on TV). Of course I awoke at 0300 realizing I had no idea where my white lab coat was (I usually don't wear one). Anyway it is now residing in my duffel bag.

Monday, May 16, 2011

It seemed like a good idea at the time

Two years ago, I volunteered to go to Rwanda on a teaching mission with the Canadian Anesthesiologists' Society International Educational Fund.  It seemed like a good time to go, I am pretty secure in my career and my kids are grown up and less dependent on me and my wife.  Plus it was two years away, lots of time.  Now it's less than two weeks before I set foot in Kigali and I am excited and a bit scared.  Okay a whole lot scared.

I wasn't one of those people who did electives in Africa during medical school.  Nor was I one of those people who trekked all over the place.  When I finished my internship, I remember wanting to do something like that.  Life intervened.  I became an anaesthesiologist, got a family, house, mortgage, dogs.  I donated money to Oxfam and MSF.  A few years ago out of the blue, an orthopedic surgeon asked me to come to Ecuador with him.  I didn't even think twice.  I was really nervous about that too but once I got down there I loved it. 
I have been on 5 medical missions to Ecuador so I should be ready for this.  Ecuador is a different kettle of fish.  That is a 50 person mission, mostly Canadian staff doing total joints under spinal.  Very important, difficult in its own way but totally different from what I am going to be doing.

I have gradually been getting ready, there are the vaccinations, the visa, booking the flight and the post mission vacation.  There is of course buying all the personal supplies; it's not like I can just buy what I forgot at Canadian Tire on arrival.

And there is the teaching.  I got my assigned topics about a year ago.  I could see right away I was going to have to do some reading.  Fortunately in Deus Ex Machina fashion Dr. Patti Livingston sent me power points of all the topics I have to cover.  I wasn't really sure whether I should be grateful or insulted.  

This blog is mostly so I can post some of the hundreds of pictures I will probably take and write a diary of my experiences.  My wife did give me a really nice journal but my writing is pretty messy and I type just about everything now.  I will try to use it though.

A lot of people when they travel write about the strange food, the large insect they found in their room or the horrifying taxi ride.  I am going to try not to do that but I probably will.  I am by nature sarcastic, I hope I don't offend anyone, especially our Rwandan hosts.