I had always thought that coming back for a second time would make things easier but I continue to be amazed.
Late last night Simon the resident accompanying me arrived sans luggage. His flight here had already been moved from Saturday to Sunday because of a concern that the connection was too short and then they lost his luggage anyway which of course means a trip to the airport this evening.
So I roused a seriously jet lagged Simon at 0600 this morning so we could walk to the hospital and make a good impression on the residents. Keep in mind that we still don't have water so I couldn't make coffee and it is not like I could just run to Starbucks or Timmy Hos. We made good time and were at the entrance I thought I had to come into by 0705 but there were a bunch of patients waiting on the steps and the door was locked. I realized that in 4 years they just might be meeting somewhere else. I remembered it was possible to get to the room from inside the hospital grounds but I also remembered 4 years ago even after 4 weeks I still had difficulty finding it, which is what happened this time. At 0730, I said we've missed them, lets just sit down and wait until 0800 when we were supposed to meet the Public Relations guy who would help us get a licence here. We sat in a conference room off the OR and discovered that they have free WiFi in their OR. What a concept.
We met with said PR guy and gave him our papers and he walked us over to the conference room which was in the same place as 4 years ago, however the door was locked although there were signs people had recently been there.
Eventually the residents all arrived along with the program director.
Now some people are able to discuss any topic off the top of their heads with a power point presentation properly prepared but I am not one of them which is why I was a little perturbed to hear that the teaching program had been modified. Our topic today was to be sepsis. In 25 years of anaesthesia I have learned a little bit about sepsis but mostly what I have learned is that whether or not you survive is more related to karma, than to anything ICU does and less so to anything anaesthesia does. I could have just said that and then gone to Serena Hotel pool but instead had to listen to presentations until past 1400 (with a nice African buffet at lunch). The other issue is that that typical Rwandan anaesthesiologist will deal with more sepsis in one year than I will in my lifetime, and that maybe prevention and early detection might have a role to play (the case they presented was a septic induced abortion which judging from the discussion is not uncommon here). It is nice however to see the Rwandans doing research in a Rwandan context.
There was a visiting American anaesthesiologist who is there on a longer mission. His mission provides him with a car and I bet his apartment has water. He was quite nice although in an academic American way. He tended to monopolize the discussion which was a bit of a relief because beyond telling them about karma and warning them that no matter how gently you induce that patient, shit is going to hit the fan I really had nothing to say. There was also a visiting Canadian cardiologist again on some type of long term mission who came in the afternoon.
We escaped to the soothing waters of the Serena Hotel where Simon bought a pool membership and we were both able to shower (separately). \
It was then back to our still waterless apartment.
There have been a few changes in Kigali in four years There are a lot of new buildings including some which were being built when I was there last there. The most significant change is that the Mutatus the minivans which were the primary means of transport in East Africa are gone, replaced by slightly larger buses. (I could be wrong, it could just be that they were all being serviced today.today). This has been compensated for by an increase in the number of the annoying motorcycle taxis. There is a disturbing increase in the number of adults now asking for money although still way less and not as aggressive as on Whyte Avenue. Also it is now necessary to go thru a metal detector, have your bag searched or Xrayed and get patted down in order to enter a shopping mall or even the Serena Hotel.
Will eventually post pictures.
Monday, August 31, 2015
Sunday, August 30, 2015
First days in Rwanda (lets see how long I can keep posting)
We had a great trip to Hungary, Slovakia and Poland which I will eventually blog about followed by 2 incredible full days in Amsterdam, a city I can't believe I waited 58 years to visit.
One adventure had to end and one had to start for me at least and so on Saturday Mary and I headed out to the airport. Mary to return to Edmonton and me on to Kigali. Schipol airport was crowded and confused like most large airports. We were able to get our boarding passes and then proceeded to the baggage drop. KLM has an automated system where you put your suitcase into what looks like a large clothes dryer, which then weighs your luggage prints a luggage tag which you have to attach to the side handle and only the side handle. The contraption then closes and your luggage disappears. The problem is that the system doesn't seem to work for back packs or duffle bags which over 50% of the passengers passing thru Amsterdam carry. These people after lining up find their luggage doesn't work and then have to line up to have it processed the old fashioned way which is what happened with my second bag.
It was then thru security where despite being scanned by that stupid photoscanner, a security had to check to see if I had anything strapped to my penis or at least I think that was why he pushed his hand down the front of my pants.
I should mention that that I took my first dose of Malarone, which for some reason makes you feel like your just drank 5 expressos. Definitely should have taken that after getting thru security. It was then the long walk to my gate with Mary, after which we said our goodbyes and she headed off to her gate.
I can't say enough about KLM although I only have Air Canada, West Jet and United to compare them with. The quality of service was fantastic in economy. Our flight was stopped at Kilamanjaro on the way to Kigali so the plane was filled with future motivational speakers. It was 8 hours to Mt K during which I read or slept. I must have slept pretty deeply because I slept thru them passing out the customs cards and thru one snack. After a one hour stop in Mt.K. to disgorge the motivational speakers, we took on more motivational speakers for the short flight to Kigali.
Canada Customs must have a training agreement with Rwanda because we had the slowest surliest agents I have ever seen. First we had to line up to pay $30 US for our Visa, then again to have our passports checked, and then to have them look at the tourist card. Mine wanted to know the exact address I was staying so I had to pull out the volunteer manual. Last time I was in Kigali, there were no addresses.
Despite the lengthy stay in Customs there was another wait for our baggage which despite my doubts about KLM's automated system, did actually make it. I was then able to leave where Emmy the driver was waiting for me. Emmy had been away the last time I was in Rwanda, so I had never met him. He drove me along the winding and hilly streets of Rwanda some of which I recognized. There were a lot fewer people on the street than the last time, however it was a little later in the evening. We arrived at the apartment and met Christophe who cleans the apartment and does odd jobs. The water was not working but I was assured it would in a few days and there were buckets of water to flush the toilets. Christophe went out and bought some more electricity (it is pay as you go in Rwanda) and finally I was able to hit the sack.
Our location is quite noisy and there seem to be even more bars than the last time but with a combination of ear-plugs and the traveler's friend zopliclone I was able to sleep until 0630 finally getting up around 0700. I must have slept thru the the church bells which I remember used to ring at 0500. It was Sunday and I could hear hymns being sung in the background. Of course I had water and I hadn't bought any food. There was a gas station nearby, where I remembered one could buy food but when I walked over a group of men told me it was closed. I picked up a bottle of water at a little store and returned to the apartment to ponder my plans. It was then I found that even though I had no water I did have internet so I fooled around on that for a while.
Finally I set out. My plan was to walk to the Simba supermarket which is over a 30 minute walk and where I remembered you could get a good coffee and pastries. On reaching the Nyamirambo Road (henceforthe known as the NR), I decided to try out the nearby market to see if I could buy some fruit or maybe even some tasty roasted morsel. I ended up buying a banana for 100 RWF. I could feel the smirks of the women at the mazunga who would buy just one banana. The market was not busy and only just setting up, it was Sunday after all. I proceeded back to the NR which as before is a long chain of small stores, hair saloons and bars. It was quite quiet with very few people out..
Passing the Mosque, I headed towards the hospital, passing that Serena Hotel which I planned to visit later. I noticed that the notorious sign was still there. I then headed to where I thought Simba would be getting a little lost but eventually ending up at the Union Trade Centre where the Nakamat is. A new change since my last visit is that to enter a mall now you have to go thru a metal detector, have your bag searched and get patted down. I stopped at the Bourbon Cafe to have my first coffee of the day and use their internet. Next I went to buy some internet time. In Rwanda, you can get a USB stick for your computer where you can buy data for a very reasonable price. It is not possible to walk more than 10 metres in Kigali without somebody trying to self you a phone card. I am not good with Sim Cards and so I took the advice in the volunteer manual and took the stick to the MTN centre in the UTC. I figured the guy there would just load on some more minutes using his computer which is what I think we did last time, however this time he demanded to use the cell phone I bought with me, then demanded 21K RWF in cash (notwithstanding all the signs in the office saying they took VISA, gave it to the security guard who then took it outside to one of the annoying phone card salesmen, brought the cards back in and the guy loaded the minutes onto my memory stick. I suspect he gets kickbacks from one of the salesmen outside.
This had made me a little hungry so I headed over to Karibu for lunch, which was the usual starchy assortment I loved some much. On the way I decided to change some US$ and saw a currency exchange. A guy outside offered to sell me money. He first offered me 600 RWF to the dollar. I told him no, the exchange is 750 and that is what I eventually got. I was pretty proud when I got to the Serena Hotel and they were giving 715 to the dollar.
Final stop was the Serena Hotel where I also had to go thru a metal detector and get patted down. I was able to buy my pool membership and spent a lovely afternoon there, including two glorious showers in their rainfall shower. I had an early supper there and walked home, missing a torrential rain storm by about 15 minutes.
Simon the resident will arrive by taxi tonight hopefully. Tomorrow we start teaching.
One adventure had to end and one had to start for me at least and so on Saturday Mary and I headed out to the airport. Mary to return to Edmonton and me on to Kigali. Schipol airport was crowded and confused like most large airports. We were able to get our boarding passes and then proceeded to the baggage drop. KLM has an automated system where you put your suitcase into what looks like a large clothes dryer, which then weighs your luggage prints a luggage tag which you have to attach to the side handle and only the side handle. The contraption then closes and your luggage disappears. The problem is that the system doesn't seem to work for back packs or duffle bags which over 50% of the passengers passing thru Amsterdam carry. These people after lining up find their luggage doesn't work and then have to line up to have it processed the old fashioned way which is what happened with my second bag.
It was then thru security where despite being scanned by that stupid photoscanner, a security had to check to see if I had anything strapped to my penis or at least I think that was why he pushed his hand down the front of my pants.
I should mention that that I took my first dose of Malarone, which for some reason makes you feel like your just drank 5 expressos. Definitely should have taken that after getting thru security. It was then the long walk to my gate with Mary, after which we said our goodbyes and she headed off to her gate.
I can't say enough about KLM although I only have Air Canada, West Jet and United to compare them with. The quality of service was fantastic in economy. Our flight was stopped at Kilamanjaro on the way to Kigali so the plane was filled with future motivational speakers. It was 8 hours to Mt K during which I read or slept. I must have slept pretty deeply because I slept thru them passing out the customs cards and thru one snack. After a one hour stop in Mt.K. to disgorge the motivational speakers, we took on more motivational speakers for the short flight to Kigali.
Canada Customs must have a training agreement with Rwanda because we had the slowest surliest agents I have ever seen. First we had to line up to pay $30 US for our Visa, then again to have our passports checked, and then to have them look at the tourist card. Mine wanted to know the exact address I was staying so I had to pull out the volunteer manual. Last time I was in Kigali, there were no addresses.
Despite the lengthy stay in Customs there was another wait for our baggage which despite my doubts about KLM's automated system, did actually make it. I was then able to leave where Emmy the driver was waiting for me. Emmy had been away the last time I was in Rwanda, so I had never met him. He drove me along the winding and hilly streets of Rwanda some of which I recognized. There were a lot fewer people on the street than the last time, however it was a little later in the evening. We arrived at the apartment and met Christophe who cleans the apartment and does odd jobs. The water was not working but I was assured it would in a few days and there were buckets of water to flush the toilets. Christophe went out and bought some more electricity (it is pay as you go in Rwanda) and finally I was able to hit the sack.
Our location is quite noisy and there seem to be even more bars than the last time but with a combination of ear-plugs and the traveler's friend zopliclone I was able to sleep until 0630 finally getting up around 0700. I must have slept thru the the church bells which I remember used to ring at 0500. It was Sunday and I could hear hymns being sung in the background. Of course I had water and I hadn't bought any food. There was a gas station nearby, where I remembered one could buy food but when I walked over a group of men told me it was closed. I picked up a bottle of water at a little store and returned to the apartment to ponder my plans. It was then I found that even though I had no water I did have internet so I fooled around on that for a while.
Finally I set out. My plan was to walk to the Simba supermarket which is over a 30 minute walk and where I remembered you could get a good coffee and pastries. On reaching the Nyamirambo Road (henceforthe known as the NR), I decided to try out the nearby market to see if I could buy some fruit or maybe even some tasty roasted morsel. I ended up buying a banana for 100 RWF. I could feel the smirks of the women at the mazunga who would buy just one banana. The market was not busy and only just setting up, it was Sunday after all. I proceeded back to the NR which as before is a long chain of small stores, hair saloons and bars. It was quite quiet with very few people out..
Passing the Mosque, I headed towards the hospital, passing that Serena Hotel which I planned to visit later. I noticed that the notorious sign was still there. I then headed to where I thought Simba would be getting a little lost but eventually ending up at the Union Trade Centre where the Nakamat is. A new change since my last visit is that to enter a mall now you have to go thru a metal detector, have your bag searched and get patted down. I stopped at the Bourbon Cafe to have my first coffee of the day and use their internet. Next I went to buy some internet time. In Rwanda, you can get a USB stick for your computer where you can buy data for a very reasonable price. It is not possible to walk more than 10 metres in Kigali without somebody trying to self you a phone card. I am not good with Sim Cards and so I took the advice in the volunteer manual and took the stick to the MTN centre in the UTC. I figured the guy there would just load on some more minutes using his computer which is what I think we did last time, however this time he demanded to use the cell phone I bought with me, then demanded 21K RWF in cash (notwithstanding all the signs in the office saying they took VISA, gave it to the security guard who then took it outside to one of the annoying phone card salesmen, brought the cards back in and the guy loaded the minutes onto my memory stick. I suspect he gets kickbacks from one of the salesmen outside.
This had made me a little hungry so I headed over to Karibu for lunch, which was the usual starchy assortment I loved some much. On the way I decided to change some US$ and saw a currency exchange. A guy outside offered to sell me money. He first offered me 600 RWF to the dollar. I told him no, the exchange is 750 and that is what I eventually got. I was pretty proud when I got to the Serena Hotel and they were giving 715 to the dollar.
Final stop was the Serena Hotel where I also had to go thru a metal detector and get patted down. I was able to buy my pool membership and spent a lovely afternoon there, including two glorious showers in their rainfall shower. I had an early supper there and walked home, missing a torrential rain storm by about 15 minutes.
Simon the resident will arrive by taxi tonight hopefully. Tomorrow we start teaching.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)